CARE AND FEEDING

The instructions below are a guideline for caring for the masks, fans, hatpins and other items we sell.

MASKS SPECIFICALLY:

Although my masks are fairly durable, those same properties that make them lightweight, comfortable and adaptable to each face also make them vulnerable under certain conditions. They can be harmed by prolonged exposure to pressure, pests and heat.
Masks should not be stored at high temperatures and never left for any length of time in a hot car.
Make sure that you crumple a mound of newspaper under the face to retain the shape when storing.
It is perfectly safe to wear your mask outside in the sun. However, masks containing dyed feathers, velvets and other non-colorfast materials should not be stored/displayed for long periods in sunlight, it will fade the dyes.
Natural feathers can attract those same pesky moths that attack your wool clothing and flour. Store with mothballs or other mothproofing such as lavender oil. If, by chance, you should get some pests, you can spray lightly with commercial flying insect spray or place a safe distance from a “bug bomb” in a closed room. Air well and scrub the mask backing (the part that touches your face) with a toothbrush, water and mild soap after to avoid allergic reaction to chemicals if you plan to wear the mask anytime soon.
Masks that are displayed should be dusted weekly by blowing thoroughly with a blow-dryer.
Feathers that start to droop downward too much can be refreshed by hanging the mask upside down and steaming. Leave hanging upside down for a day or so afterward.
There is a wonderful product called Folex that can be purchased in the carpet cleaning area of some home improvement stores. A clean toothbrush and some Folex will clean most makeup and other dirt from the mask backing and SOME fabrics. Test a hidden area first!
Fabrics, especially velvets, can be kept “dusted” and looking nice by brushing with a clean, dry toothbrush. Be careful around jewels and beadwork.
Elastic wears out! It may need to be replaced over the years. My masks are made so that adjusting and replacing it should be simple for anyone capable of sewing on a button. I am happy to replace elastic for a small fee by mail, by appointment at my studio or any show that I am physically at.

FEATHERS IN GENERAL:  
Fans can be affected by extreme heat much like the masks can. Take the same precautions.
Natural feathers can attract those same pesky moths that attack your wool clothing and flour. Store with mothballs or other mothproofing such as lavender oil. (see mask section)
A damp cloth and even some mild soap can be used on most feathers, except ostrich. Reviving ostrich after it has become wet is a very difficult process that even I leave to the professional dyers.
Blow-dry and steam to “fluff” the feathers after contact with moisture. Steaming with a garment steamer or over a tea kettle (not an open pan) will revive and “preen” feathers. Be careful not to get too close to flame! Feathers will melt and singe much like hair.
Bawdy Dusters can collect body oils. They may be cleaned by swishing the feather part ONLY in water with a mild soap and rinsing. Follow by blow-drying and steaming. Dyed feathers will stain the wooden handles if you soak the whole duster.
Dyed feathers are fairly hardy BUT are not colorfast and should never be stored for long periods in sunlight. Anytime they become wet they may fade color onto anything they touch.
Anytime you wish to “pack” or store and item, use layers of crumpled tissue first (to avoid newsprint fading) and then newspaper to cushion your item. Try to store in as natural a shape as possible, without pressure.
Kitties love feathers and dogs may also be attracted to them, especially if they are un-dyed. Don’t tempt them unless you have bought something specifically for Fluffy to play with!
If you break the quill on the feather there are a few cosmetic tricks I can apply to repair it. Generally, this is something I recommend only on major focal feathers. In some cases broken feathers can be replaced.
If the quill is not broken and nothing has been removed, steaming and a little stroking into place will make a huge difference in feathers that look “mussed”. Be careful not to “wet” the feathers while steaming, shake them at intervals, blow-dry and employ spaced steaming periods if necessary.

SCARVES AND CLOTHING:
Please refer to the artist for care instructions on individual garments. The scarf care below is generally appropriate for most.
Most of our scarves are silk or silk blends. Sponging, careful hand-washing, drying flat, steaming and professional cleaning assistance is recommended. Anytime you seek professional cleaning assistance for unusual garments, choose a credible establishment rather than a discount one. Try to find one that will make some sort of guarantee about their expertise and advice on cleaning.
You may try the Folex mentioned in the mask section for some stains, but it cannot be guaranteed against color fading on silk. Always test and proceed with caution.
I have found that rubbing alcohol, especially the 99% grade you can buy at some medical supplies, can remove paint and adhesives from some fabric with no damage to the fabric.
I have heard that a product called “Lexol” works beautifully to clean and oil leather and can be used on older feathers that have lost a little luster. I have not personally tried it this so I would recommend testing using it with caution.